Bringing Home Your New Puppy!

Jazz/Tyki past puppy

 

First vet appt. should be within 72 hours of bringing your pup home please make this appointment ahead of time. Please send me an email and let me know the outcome of the visit! 

NO shots at this appointment for ANY reason even if your vet says it is needed, this could make your pup very ill or worse! He or she has just received a vaccination within about a week. Your puppy will also have just been dewormed with safe guard dewormer for 3 straight days and should not need any deworming again for 1-3 weeks unless a stool sample reveals otherwise then your vet will be able to advise. I worm all of my puppies every 2 weeks until 16 weeks of age Tractor supply has Nemex 2 or Safeguard you can buy and easily give to your puppy these are just as effective as anything your vet will offer you we use Nemex2 until the pups are 6 weeks then we start them on Safegaurd (Fenbendazole) because it covers more types of parasites than nemex 2. 

Quick list of things you may need.

When you first get home you will need very few things, though you may have that nesting urge and want to buy your baby everything you can! 

Quick list of things you may need.

  1. Crate with a pillow blanket or small bed.

This is the one I use you may want a smaller one but these will last forever and you can attach an X-pen to it to make a play area

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFWCLY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2. X-pen or IRIS USA Indoor/Outdoor Plastic Pet Pen 2 that I own and use.

Potty pads Tractor Supply retriever brand or Walmart has All Star Brand I buy XL pads and do not prefer to use pad holder they seem to make the pads more of a challenge for pups so they like to pull on them.

3. Food  Diamond Naturals Small Breed Puppy 

4. Vitamins  http://www.nuvet.com/79667

5. Food and water bowlsAmazon has some decent starter bowls that have worked for me 2 of Dogit Elevated Dish, Blue, Small

6. Toys

7. Safegaurd Dewormer from amazon

8. Shampoo I use “Anypet”  by far my favorite ever!

9. A pair of baby toe nail clippers from the baby section at most stores I do not use dog clippers on small pups wait till they are about 5-6 months old.

10. Either diluted cleaning vinegar or Chlorhexidine 2% Solution this is where I buy it I dilute it 50/50 with water and wipe everything down when you clean don’t put puppy back until completely dry.   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHSD8M/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will not need much more than these items when you first bring home your puppy they will eventually need a harness or color and some grooming supplies but that is a little way down the road. WalMart has a good brush that I use as a starter brush its a boars bristle brush in the peoples brush section  start brushing and playing with toes right away just so they will not be scared when you actually have to groom, also you can sit in a room with a running blow dryer near them so they get used to it most dogs large and small are terrified of the dryer best to start young. If you plan to use a dremel on the toes also start young with the dremels back end just touching them anywhere no attachment needed at first it is just to get them used to the vibration.

You can buy this one on Amazon link below, at Walmart or your local Tractor Supply / Feed Store. I recommend 13 days after you bring your pup home using Safeguard the one in the link above for 3 days on your pup. I do this every 2 weeks until my pups vaccines are finished and immune system is strong.

Safegaurd Dewormer from amazon

More detail on items/care needed below Please read!

The above quick list is just meant to be an easy to locate check list.

Vaccines: 

Your pup will get a 5 in 1 before leaving me at approx. 8 weeks of age

Duramune Max 5″ at 8 weeks it contains-

Canine Distemper, Adenovirus Type 1 (Hepatitis), Adenovirus Type 2 (Respiratory Disease), Parainfluenza, Parvovirus.

I do my pups second vaccine closer to 14 weeks then the last shot in the set of 3 is at 18 weeks, to be sure parvo is covered it sometimes takes until 18 weeks for moms immunities to parvo to actually leave the puppy, vaccines do not work if the pup is still using moms immunities, this is why they spread them out in 3 shots because each pup is different and immunities leave the system at different times, 18 weeks is usually the safest bet for final vaccine especially parvo.

8-12-16 weeks are typical protocol. I still prefer to wait that extra 2 weeks out on the final vaccine.
I do not give additional shots no need, they are not going to be hunting dogs in most cases.

Rabies is safe at 6 months or later given alone.

This should be all the vaccines your pup needs in the first year.

Flea treatments: By adopting a puppy from me you are agreeing also to never under any circumstance even with a vet prescription give oral flee medication ( using these drugs invalidates my contract) ie: NexGard, Trifexis, Bravecto, Comfortis, Sentinel, Capstar, Simparica Advantus or any other new or unlisted oral medications that have or may come out. They are like ingesting raid, dangerous and potentially deadly and may cause symptoms like extreme scratching for no reason, losing ability to walk, irregular breathing, seizures, uncontrollable bowels, hair loss or even death within hours to days of taking the medications and can take up to 3 months to fully leave the body. What is worse the dog may take the first dose and have slight reaction then after taking the second or third dose acquire an extreme allergy to these drugs so it is very hard for vets to diagnose properly and many even seasoned vets do not know about this and diagnose the dogs with other ailments and may prescribe additional drugs that compound the problem, most vets do not research this and/or take the time to look up the statistics of illness or deaths to understand the dangers of what they are prescribing. If flea meds are necessary my first choice would be something all natural like DE or coconut oil even Dawn dish soap, as far as prescription drugs I would likely choose Revolution if I had to use a “drug” this also covers heart worm and ear mites and is safest as far as I have researched for Cavaliers. I do not use any drugs for my pets however, we choose to stay natural. Cavaliers are highly sensitive to these oral medications so whether you adopt a puppy from me or someone else please do your research on this matter before poisoning your pets. There is a FaceBook group you can join to learn more about it Does BRAVECTO Kill Dogs?

*** Throughout your puppy’s life you will likely need additional vaccines like rabies,  after the 3 sets of core puppy vaccines. Please do not let your vet talk you into getting vaccines such as a 5-in-1 (core vaccine) at the same time as getting the rabies or other vaccines, vaccines break down the immune system for possibly 1-4 weeks and all vaccines should be given 3-4 weeks between so they body can recover and create immunities.

 Feeding:  When you pick up your new cavalier puppy I will send some of the food that they have been eating.  They will be eating Diamond Naturals Small Breed Puppy and 1/2 of a tab of Nuvet Plus per day to order online  http://www.nuvet.com/79667 or by phone at 1-800-474-7044 our breeder code is 79667. I will also give you a sample.

Puppy Immunity and how NuVet vitamins can help.

I feed them 2 times per day 1st at 7am 2nd at 6pm, you can feed 3 times if you feel it necessary that is fine too, just put the food down about 1/2 a cup then take it away when they finish or give more if they are still hungry each one is different in the amount they will eat at 1 sitting, if they don’t finish in a half hours time take it away and try again in a few hours.

You can soak their food with a very small amount of clean warm water,  Raw goats milk or goat keifer for a few minutes before serving it to them this can help them digest the food better if they are having tummy issues as well and is also a good way to make sure they are getting enough water but is not necessary, I will NOT be doing this 2 weeks prior to sending them home anymore, all of my puppies will be used to just dry kibble before they go home for easy adjustment, clean fresh water should be available at all times as well I use filtered water not tap.

 Switching foods abruptly will cause tummy problems and cause extra stress on your new puppy. Your puppy will already be under the stress of leaving his or her home it is not wise to change foods right away. If you choose to switch foods it needs to be done very slowly over a 3-4 week period. And please wait at least 1 month to begin this process until your pup is well adjusted to his or her new home.

By 9 months your puppy will be ready to switch to an adult or all stages diet this can help control weight and keep you dog in good condition puppy food is high in calories which is not necessary for an older pup, being overweight can lead to many problems with joints and heart. This is also why I do not believe in giving table scrapes or free feeding!

These are the foods I use for my adult dogs, to help you start to decide which food to switch your pup to after 9 months.

Wellness Core Ocean White Fish

Earthborn Holistic Coastal Catch

Natures Variety Instinct

Diamond Naturals Chicken and Rice

Throughout your dogs life I recommend using only premium foods you can also top off kibble with BPA free canned 5 star foods that do not contain carrageenan and/or colorings natural or artificial, I use dehydrated raw bits (Natures Variety).  With kibble I stay away from most foods especially foods with corn, bi-products that are unspecified,  medandione (synthetic vitamin k) or anything else unspecified like animal fat. Say the bi-product is something nutritious it will be labeled as an ingredient and while even chicken feet can be healthy for dogs if the foods are not specific you can be feeding your dog  sick slaughter house animals, or even feathers when feeding bi-products. I like to see meat and meat meals as the first ingredients and chelated minerals as well as pro and/or pre-biotics at the bottom of the list. Also a fresh raw diet is always a great option but for most owners not feasible  and needs much research to be able to do without causing your dog any deficiencies. There are online companies that sell these diets already prepared though! Petco and Petsmart have a refrigerated section with some raw diets as well these are some of the foods I use as mixers occasionally most dogs love them but you must not leave them to sit out and spoil also these are usually pasteurized which kills off nutrients and enzymes as well as bacteria so they are often put back into the food artificially keep that in mind.

However if you have a puppy that is a particularly hard to feed I will suggest Royal Canin Small Breed Puppy as a mixer so your puppy isn’t starving! You can also try adding a little canned food on top to make it appealing.

http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/  has some good info to help you understand label reading so you can easily understand what to feed and what not to feed and why.

Carriers: These are the ones I use they have removable washable pads and has a seatbelt strap for the car also can be used on most airlines. I have the large sizes.

Sherepa carrier on wheels

Without Wheels

Safety/Housing: I recommend that you get an X-pen or IRIS USA Indoor/Outdoor Plastic Pet Pen or some kind of safe puppy enclosure for when you are away from home or around the house but puppy is not being supervised.  This Crate is by far my favorite in my kitchen, plenty of room to play, have a potty area at one end, bed food water bowls at the other end. Some people use a bathroom or laundry room or a corner in the kitchen. You would be surprised at what trouble a puppy can find if they are left roaming the house. I also firmly believe that all dogs should be crate trained you should get a medium sized crate 28″ or 32″, for young pups I like plastic small cat carrier type crate perfect the puppy stage as a starter crate, gives them a secure feeling to be in a tighter space, it also can be medium though which will last their entire life.  Keep the crate inside the enclosure to sleep and do not lock your puppy in it until they can sleep through the night without having to potty put the crate at one end of the enclosure and potty pads at the other I buy the Xl pads at Tractor Supply Walmart has some that are almost as good of quality too. I have already introduced them to the crate starting at 3 weeks they all pile in to sleep at night naturally,  I do not have to train this behavior so they should have an easy time adjusting but it may be best to let them sleep closer to you until they get used to sleeping alone as they are now sleeping with their litter mates. They also like to have a comfy bed or pillow to sleep on. I like this crate for when they get a little older, I like all metal crates for adults but puppies may chew the sides and get their teeth caught on the wires.

Human Furniture

Never leave a puppy on a couch, bed or piece of furniture that your puppy is unable to jump up on himself. If your puppy can jump up on the furniture on their own they are strong enough to jump off on their own. Toy breeds especially are prone to injuries more than larger breeds when it comes to jumping up and down off things. I highly recommend a doggy ramp or doggy stairs for furniture items like a human bed or a couch if your dog is going to be allowed to use these pieces of furniture for lounging on regularly. The wear and tear it can save on your dog’s leg muscles and joints can be well worth the effort once they reach their geriatric years. The time is now to begin teaching your puppy he must ask before getting on ANYTHING except his bed.

Flooring dangers

Many homes today have hard wood floors, tile, vinyl, or even stained concrete flooring. As does ours. Carpet isn’t as durable over time as these other types of flooring. There is not 1 stitch of carpet in our home. As your puppy matures the hair between their pads will grow quickly and you will need to keep up with a regular clipping schedule to keep your puppy from having difficulty obtaining a good footing with each step they take. I also highly recommend adding rugs that are washable in your washing machine throughout the common areas your puppy will walk through. This will help give them better footing. Bad footing over a prolonged period of time, especially during the growing period for a puppy could have a huge impact on their structural development and cause slipped patellas which is a common disorder in toy breeds. Also try to limit running and playing in your home if you do have flooring that is more slippery for a puppy. The best surface a puppy can run and play on is a enclosed yard with grass. The more a puppy runs and stops abruptly in a house to avoid furniture the more they wear out their little bodies. Outside running where they can run and slow down before stopping is much safer on them structurally. Puppies also tend to dive and roll and the grass is a much safer location for them to do this on.

Electricity and puppies!

Normally, one of the first things we might do when expecting a baby is put those plastic electrical plug protectors inside all our unused electrical sockets. Puppies sometimes, however, have been known to be more attracted to electrical outlets with these protectors in them versus the electrical outlet being left open and unused. The biggest electrical threat to puppies is cords being within their reach. Even if an item is plugged in, but not turned on the electrical shock your puppy could receive if it manages to bite through a cord could kill or severely harm your puppy. Make sure all cords are out of reach from your puppy at all times.

Food and Water bowls: Cavaliers tend to get their ears wet if you dont kepp them trimmed up,  so for drinking I recommend a spaniel bowl or a lix-it water bottle (my favorite) so that you can avoid wet matted ears. Not really a problem until they are grown up and ears are not  long yet so not necessary for new pups. I clean the inside of their ears with unrefined coconut oil or a good non chemical ear cleaner and a soft cotton ball the oil is a natural anti fungal anti bacterial and great for the skin or chlorhexidine diluted.

Teeth: Cavaliers need at least weekly brushing daily is best a finger tooth brush or even a paper towel works fine I use enzymatic gel toothpaste you can even get it at Wal-Mart. small pups dont need toothpaste until they get adult teeth 6 months or so but I use a paper towel on small one just so they can get used to having the inside of their mouths touched.

Eyes: Because Cavaliers have large prominent eyes they can have issues with tear staining under their eyes. This is seen a lot in teething puppies of all breeds mostly between 5-20 weeks off and on. These marks can be unattractive and may produce an odor if not maintained. I use unfiltered apple cider vinegar in their water just a capful to prevent this your puppy will be used to drinking it, you can add it to their food with some whole fat greek yogurt or plain keifer as well, it only takes a cap-full per an average bowl of water not only does this help the eyes it also aids in digestion of proteins and prevents the growth of harmful bacteria and viruses in the digestive tract. As a bonus, it does not interfere with the body’s beneficial bacteria, which are the immune system’s first line of defense against harmful microbes. There are so many things that ACV is good for even parasite control that I highly recommend you continue using it. But back to eyes the vinegar and simple washing even cornstarch can prevent this if it becomes an issue. I never recommend angel eyes it is an antibiotic and only a temporary fix plus it is not safe to give antibiotics in low doses on-goingly. after the teething process is over the watery eyes usually will go away if it does not your water may have too many minerals (too hard) which can clog the tear ducts in this case switching to bottled or filtered water may help or your pup may have a food allergy.

Nails: They should be clipped or filed monthly I use a buffer after to smooth them out. with adults I like using a dremmel or even a pedi paws but you need to get you puppy used to it early on by turning it on and just letting it run so they can feel the vibration. i also think if you will not be showing your puppy its a good idea to shave the hair up under the paw pads as your puppy grows this hair will be like little mops attracting dirt, mud, urine or even feces.

Brushing & Bathing:

Grooming is an essential part of your dogs health! Just like it is for us 🙂

My Quick grooming tips-

Cavaliers need minimal brushing mostly the ears, the chest and armpits. every other day or as needed and I like to give them a bath at least once a month to every other week depending on how much outside playtime they have had. They are not all “foofoo” dogs and do enjoy playing in the yard as much as they enjoy your couch or lap, Shampoos I use are Chris Christensen shampoos, sprays and conditioners  I love “Anypet” brand puppy shampoo the pink one (my favorite and first choice) I get it on Amazon in a 2 pack, it has the most amazing fragrance that will last for about 2 weeks and also conditions and is antibacterial, or nature’s miracle shampoo for puppies. I also love Zymox I use it once monthly to bi monthly (this is my second choice). I use a regular pin brush and a small hard plastic or metal wide tooth comb for grooming my cavaliers. To finish them after they are all brushed out I use an inexpensive Goodie brand boars hair brush I got at Walmart in the “peoples” hair section make the coat silky and shiny. Also Never shave them down to the skin in extreme hot or cold weather! I only shave my dogs when the weather gets snowy or rainy and the wetness weighs down their ears or if one of my girls is a mamma to be for sanitary reasons, never because it is hot out in this case they get a 1inch cut, the hair actually insulates and keeps them cool in the summer. After a bath I like to spray my dogs just before drying with Pet Diesel Lavender spray , I also spray their clean beds with it as lavender is calming and having fresh smelling pillows helps keep them smelling good long after their baths!

“If you do want to give your dog a summer cut that is perfectly fine there is a lot of silly talk online i.e. FaceBook Instagram etc. Memes and such about not shaving your cavalier, well I do NOT prefer them shaved down to the skin, this can actually be very dangerous if they are out in the sun leaving no sun protection, but I will shave mine down to about 1/2 inch in the fall 1 inch in the spring to keep them protected from the sun this also helps keep them CLEAN shed a little less and stay parasite free especially in hot humid weather! Yes I let my dogs run in the dirt, dig, chase rabbits and even play in pools of water, imagine the mess that would be left each day if they did not get their coats trimmed. I prefer to enjoy my dogs and let them enjoy their lives rather than be bathed every day.  A short puppy cut can be very cute, easy to manage and when the hair eventually grows back it is silky and soft. I trim my dogs 2 times per year first in the spring then again in late Fall before the snow hits. I have done this for over 20 years with multiple breeds of dogs and cats, they have all been fine!  No it never caused skin cancer never caused them to go bald that one makes me laugh, I do not let the internet and popular posts scare me! I use common sense and proven methods I do not choose take advice from these so called FaceBook experts and the hype of  internet nonsense.” On the other hand if your pup is mainly a house dog not trimming of course will no hurt a thing a dog in full coat is Beautiful! Just be sure to maintain the coat and ears cavaliers are not difficult to groom but must be maintained for health cleanliness and comfort.

Panagenics Hydrating Spray.  This is a fantastic product as well and this site has some good grooming tips.

Above are a just a few quick grooming tips I wrote.

There’s no way I could explain the entire grooming process in depth this well, here you will find good tips. Thank you Dog place for the tutorials 🙂

Part 1 http://www.thedogplace.org/HEALTH/Grooming1-Haircoat_Lanting-105.asp

Part 2 http://www.thedogplace.org/HEALTH/Grooming2-Clean-Dog_Lanting-106.asp

Part 3 http://www.thedogplace.org/HEALTH/Grooming3-Tooth-Nails_Lanting-109.asp

Toys: Puppies need lots of toys soft and hard tough balls that are large enough to not get stuck in their mouth.   I do not ever give raw hide pups can choke and die on it I don’t recommend deer antlers as I have heard that pups can break their teeth on them.  Toys need to be checked regularly to be sure they are not losing small pieces your puppy can choke on. Most squeaky toys can be dangerous and need to be checked regularly don’t leave your pup unattended with them, they are a favorite and we do buy them just never left unattended,  plastic  water bottles without tops make good temporary toys I actually buy the type of toys that have covers on the bottles the pups love the noise! I will send home some toys just remember they need to be checked often and put away when you are not watching.

Training treats: I like string cheese, cooked chicken bits Natures variety instinct raw boost dehydrated are our personal favorite dry treats or dried liver and Dream bones not the kind that have knots they can untie them and choke! Only the large straight sticks, if you are away from home and need something dry and unrefrigerated I do not like to use too many commercial treats too many recalls plus they are usually full of junk and preservatives. But Dream bones have been about the best treat i have found of this type and all of my dogs large and small love them none have ever gotten sick chewing and eating them but again don’t leave them unattended with these.

You need to train your puppy like you are the pack leader you can be firm yet gentle just as their mothers are to them when they are still with her. Mothers do not let their pups get away with behaviors she does not like and will let them know firmly without hurting them,  you need to continue to do this don’t let cuteness trick you into allowing your puppy to be the boss at any time any “bad” behaviors need to be dealt with immediately so your puppy will be the perfect pet you are dreaming of!

ID. Cavaliers need I.D. as well they are very super friendly and should never be off leash unless in a controlled environment and should never be allowed to escape your yard or home… I like and use microchips on my pups, some tattoo, some just use collar tags some use the AKC link I have not yet tried it looks very cool! It is GPS for your dogs!

Vaccinations need to be kept up We give the first one at 8 weeks. You should have you vet give the second at 12-14 weeks and third between 16-20!   I don’t let any puppies out side until 18-20 weeks or 2 weeks post final vaccination when they have a stronger immune system. Never take you new puppy to parks pet stores or dog parks or anywhere unknown dogs are present until they are fully vaccinated and 2 weeks post that vaccination!!!

Spay/Neuter:

When is it best to spay/neuter? I get asked about this often. It’s so important that I decided to provide my thoughts. No I do not condone early spay/neuter! Nor will I bash it!

Why DO we recommend waiting until your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel puppy is over 12 months to spay or neuter? But wouldn’t Bob Barker be upset?

Depending on your situation, how many pets you have what sexes are they spayed or neutered are factors, as behaviors could arise if you do not however…

There are a lot of health and behavior dangers associated with spaying too young. It is best to wait until 18-24 months when all the growth plates have closed. It is the sex hormones that tell bones how to grow and when to stop growing. Bone growth is also important for behavioral health believe it or not, dogs that are neutered too early may show anxious or aggressive behaviors.

We can tell a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel who was spayed too young. They grow taller and leggier with shaggy coats many are overweight this is a bad combo. I can’t imagine that a human would grow properly without hormone therapy if she received a full hysterectomy before puberty!

Recent studies show double the incidence of hip dysplasia in early neutered males compared with intact males. (This study was just males) In females, we know that early spaying impairs the development of the urinary tract and leads to urinary incontinence. For more detailed scientific study, you can this document: Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs.

A little bit of inconvenience now will give your Cavalier King Charles Spaniel puppy a longer, healthier life. Again however…

Some conflicting things to consider, do you have 2 intact males or females that you do not intend to breed? Well if you do be ready for a potential dominance stand off! All breeds can succumb to this no matter how gentle and sweet you feel your babies are

I do not force upon my puppy families a spay or neuter contract I trust and feel it is up to you personally to decide what, depending on your situation is best for your pup. I also feel if you have a vets opinion on this issue try to get a second or third, talk to as many pet owners as you can and the outcomes they have experienced. All dogs do not fit the same mold as we do not either.

I want your pets to be healthy and happy whether they come from me or not this issue is an important one for the health and well being of your dogs  as well as you and your family.

I believe it is best to wait until at least 6 months or post first heat for females and 6-12 months for males. I will never condone any vet that wants to do either procedure before 6 months many vets are pushing to do it at 4 months! This is very scary please do not fall for this you could lose your pet or they could have a very poor quality of life due to no hormones during the growth stage plus your puppy will not be as beautiful as they could be if spayed or neutered too young.

Umbilical Hernia – I can usually tell by seven to 10 weeks of age if one of my Cavalier King Charles Spaniel puppies is going to have a little hernia. Umbilical hernias are usually caused by chewing/cutting the umbilical cord too short by the dam or the cord being under stress or unusually short at delivery.  There are many disagreeing studies that they may or may not be hereditary. The mode of inheritance is unknown, but regardless this is minor and not a health issue.

What actually is a umbilical hernia? If the umbilical ring does not close immediately after birth sometimes a little fatty tissue is trapped on the outside of the abdomen after the ring closes causing a bubble-like area where the umbilical cord was attached. If the bubble cannot be pushed back up into the abdomen it is called a non-reducible hernia. If the bubble can be pushed back up into the abdomen then it is called a reducible hernia. Sometimes people refer to them as an “outie”  In either case, about 99% of the time they are completely harmless. Some DVM’s and puppy families opt to never do a thing about them, while others opt to fix them during sterilization. They are very common in small breed dogs of all breeds. A companion pet owner need not be alarmed if their new Cavalier King Charles Spaniel puppy does have an umbilical hernia. As I said before, it can easily be corrected during the spay/neuter process personally I would just leave it alone as they pose no threat to the dog. “Umbilical hernias” can appear on any breed of dogs. They really are just a part of each puppies own uniqueness as are our belly buttons.  Just seems to me, we have given them an extremely medical term for canines.

Inguinal Hernia – This is the condition which is the result of abdominal organs, fat or tissue protruding through the inguinal ring. Inguinal hernias are presented as skin-covered bulges in the groin. They can be bilateral, involving both sides, or unilateral, involving only one side. Inguinal hernias are more common in females than males, but do occur in both sexes. As with umbilical hernias most inguinal hernias will shrink and disappear as the puppy grows, although you and your vet must keep an eye on the size of the hernia(s). They are a bit less common than Umbilical hernias but still happen now and then. If your puppy is found to have anInguinal hernia I will send you $50 to repair if it occurs on both sides I will send you $100. This should cover the extra fee when you have your puppy spayed only if you provide written proof from your vet. This is not written in my contract but I will still honor this.

Foods not to feed:

Chocolate coffee tea or any other foods containing caffeine

Cat food,  Yeast dough can cause gas and rupture the stomach or intestines,  Baby food containing onion powder,  Onions, onion powder,  Garlic, garlic powder,  Grapes or raisins, Cooked or small pointy bones,  citrus oil,  Fat trimmings from meat,  Human Vitamins with iron

Salt, Mushrooms, Sugar or sugary foods, Hops or alcoholic beverages, Large amounts of liver

potato rhubarb or tomato plant leaves

Raw eggs contains an enzyme called avidin that causes the body to block Biotin aka vitamin B

Raw Fish, Persimmon seeds

Cleaners:

Try not to use anything with sol in it i.e. Pinesol Lysol they are very toxic to dogs…

Vinegar is great non toxic cleaner this is my first choice. You can buy cleaning vinegar usually by the ammonia and bleach at the market, the difference between this and regular distilled white vinegar is that cleaning vinegar has a little higher ph. When cleaning with vinegar you should let the surface stay wet for about 10 minutes then wipe clean. We also use heat to clean at 240 degrees on all hard and soft surfaces.

Parasites

Our puppies generally do not ever have worms as they are incredibly easy to prevent, but unfortunately I have had a few that have left me and after a few days even following a clear stool sample and preemptive treatment get the following “parasites/protozoans” do to age related low immunity even if no siblings ever get them,  pups over 6 months will gain natural immunity to many common puppy parasites, excluding worms they should be treated every 6 months for your dogs life time with safeguard for 3-7 straight days, Fleas and ticks only if present no need to poison an unaffected dog. I prefer my pups go home after 9-10 weeks for this reason.

Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that live in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats. They cause disease most commonly in puppies and kittens less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed, or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g.; change in ownership, other disease present, giving birth).In dogs and cats, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I. ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs. Regardless of which species is present, we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy ages, he tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult, he may carry coccidia in his intestines, and shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects.

How are coccidia transmitted?

A puppy is not born with the coccidia organisms in his intestine. However, once born, the puppy is frequently exposed to his mother’s feces even if just a tiny speck, and if the mother is shedding the infective cysts in her feces due to the stress of motherhood, then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within the young animal’s intestines. Since young puppies, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal’s intestines. Oftentimes, this can have mild to severe effects.

From exposure to the coccidia in feces to the onset of the illness is about 13 days. Most puppies who are ill from coccidia are, therefore, two weeks of age and older. Although most infections are the result of spread from the mother, this is not always the case. Any infected puppy or kitten is contagious to other puppies or kittens. In breeding facilities, shelters, animal hospitals, dog parks, etc., it is wise to isolate those infected from those that are not. It can also be spread from a single fly in the backyard so is easily contracted by a young puppy!

What are the symptoms of coccidiosis?

The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated, and in some instances, die from the disease.

Most infected puppies  are in the four to twelve week age group. this age group is most susceptible because they are going through stressful periods like weaning or moving to a new home. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis. also note it is best to do a follow up test even if the test is negative as it may not be present in each sample.

It should be mentioned that stress plays a huge role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy to arrive at his new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. Remember, the incubation period (from exposure to illness) is about seven to thirteen days. If the puppy has been with his new owner several weeks, then the exposure to coccidia most likely occurred after the animal arrived at the new home.

What are the risks?

Although most cases are mild, it is not uncommon to see severe, bloody diarrhea result in dehydration and even death. This is most common in animals who are ill or infected with other parasites, bacteria, or viruses. Coccidiosis is very contagious, not to humans, especially among young puppies.

What is the treatment of coccidiosis?

Fortunately, coccidiosis is very treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon®) and trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen®) have been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy’s own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of one to three weeks are usually required.

How is coccidiosis prevented or controlled?

All fecal material should be removed. No dirty shoes around young puppies! Housing needs to be such that food and water cannot become contaminated with feces. Clean water should be provided at all times. Most disinfectants do not work well against coccidia; incineration of the feces, and steam cleaning, immersion in boiling water, or a 10% ammonia solution are the best methods to kill coccidia. Coccidia can withstand freezing. Never allow a puppy around ammonia it can kill them!

Flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. Mice and other animals can ingest the coccidia and when killed and eaten by a dog, and can infect the dog. Therefore, insect and rodent control is very important in preventing coccidiosis.

The coccidia species of dogs and cats do not infect humans.

Giardia

The most common drugs used to kill Giardia are Fenbendazole and metronidazole. These drugs are normally given for three to ten days to treat giardiasis then again 13 days post final dose. Both drugs may be given in combination if necessary. We have had a couple of stubborn bouts of Giardia in the past as we live near birds and water and now make it routine to de worm with Fenbendazle starting at 6 weeks and again at 8-9 and also give this to pregnant mother at 5o days of pregnancy for 3-5 days straight as a precaution. It is quite easy to get rid of and believe it or not many people and animals are carriers but the immune system fights it off so symptoms are never present. Tap water, stagnate water a pup may get on a walk, dog parks,  birds, dirty shoes and other infected animals are usually the cause of it.

I will be very honest Giardia is probably the most pesky thing I have ever delt with as a breeder,  stool samples often do not show positive results either… We have much wild life around us and it is carried in the muscles of mother dogs, when they give birth it will release, this is why I treat my mammas at 50 days of pregnancy, I cannot, not let my dogs outside though! But thank goodness it is cheap and easy to cure! All of our pups get preventative treatment which is also a broad spectrum dewormer (safeguard) before coming home.

We have not gotten worms fleas ticks or coccidia however knock on wood!

Again Just to reiterate my thoughts on Oral Flea meds! Please read!!!

Flea treatments: By adopting a puppy from me you are agreeing also to never under any circumstance even with a vet prescription give oral flee medication ( using these drugs invalidates my contract) ie: NexGard, Trifexis, Bravecto, Comfortis, Sentinel, Capstar, Simparica Advantus or any other new or unlisted oral medications that have or may come out. They are like ingesting raid, dangerous and potentially deadly and may cause symptoms like extreme scratching for no reason, losing ability to walk, irregular breathing, seizures, uncontrollable bowels, hair loss or even death within hours to days of taking the medications and can take up to 3 months to fully leave the body. What is worse the dog may take the first dose and have slight reaction then after taking the second or third dose acquire an extreme allergy to these drugs so it is very hard for vets to diagnose properly and many even seasoned vets do not know about this and diagnose the dogs with other ailments and may prescribe additional drugs that compound the problem, most vets do not research this and/or take the time to look up the statistics of illness or deaths to understand the dangers of what they are prescribing. If flea meds are necessary my first choice would be something all natural like DE or coconut oil even Dawn dish soap, as far as prescription drugs I would likely choose Revolution if I had to use a “drug” this also covers heart worm and ear mites and is safest as far as I have researched for Cavaliers. I do not use any drugs for my pets however, we choose to stay natural. Cavaliers are highly sensitive to these oral medications so whether you adopt a puppy from me or someone else please do your research on this matter before poisoning your pets. There is a FaceBook group you can join to learn more about it Does BRAVECTO Kill Dogs?

 

Article about a skin cancer medication that is very deadly to dogs and cats. One of our puppy families lost our beautiful baby girl to this. They were a great family it was a very unfortunate accident while renovating a bathroom,  a sealed box that the pup got into contained this medication sadly she did not make it past 12 hours after finding the tube 🙁 and she only touched it with a tiny tooth puncture in the tube, please read if you or anyone in contact with your pet/pets dog or cat are using any topical cream for skin cancer it can  even be deadly if they lick it on someones arm or leg etc…

All of the info on Charmere Cavaliers was written by me personally over many years, if anyone as a breeder would like to use some of my practices on a different site please give credit to Charmere Cavaliers.